Enchanting Saenautasel Turf Houses in East Iceland’s Highlands

Over the summer, I had the pleasure of traveling around Iceland, which has become an annual trip for me in the last few years. To my surprise, I always get to experience something new each time. East Iceland has a lot of hidden gems, so don’t skip out on making time for this area. Get Access to More Hidden Gems in Iceland Sænautasel, the turf houses and farm I m featuring in this episode, and hundreds of other attractions, activities, and accommodations in Iceland are available on My Iceland Map. I have added over 50 places since I launched my Iceland map in July and it is constantly being updated. If you grab the full access to my Iceland map, you get over 250 places that I recommend in Iceland, along with four itineraries to use for planning your trip. Those itineraries include a 10-day Ring Road trip, a 3-day South Iceland trip, The Famous Golden Circle and a Reykjanes Peninsula Day Trip. A one-time purchase gives you lifetime access, which includes any updates I make to the map. Until October 1st, 2023, I am providing a 10% discount on full access and my wonderful podcast listeners are the first ones I am sharing this discount with. To get the 10% discount, use the code “take10”, that is the word take in lowercase and the number 10. There is a link to the my Iceland map in the Trip Planning Help tab at the top of this website or you can go directly to the site of my map on rexby.com/jewells/Iceland Living in the Icelandic Highlands In some of my other episodes about the Icelandic highlands, you might have heard me say that no one lives in this area of the country even though it consists of about 80% of the land mass of Iceland. The reason for this is that the Icelandic highlands do not have a lot of fertile land, they are higher up in elevation which means it can be much colder and the weather is even more variable there. Well, there was a time when some people did live in the highlands. Saenautasel's Fascinating History Starting in 1843, some Icelanders chose to live among the gorgeous landscapes of Jökuldalsheiði heath, which is known as Sænautasel farm. In 1875, the ferocious eruption of the Askja caldera forced the abandonment of this farm. But five years later, the former inhabitants returned and rebuilt. Over the years volcanic onslaughts and other natural disruptions challenged those living there but they persisted. Like many houses in Iceland during this time the buildings were made of turf. Turf houses are literally made of sod, turf and stone stacked in an ingenious way to provide shelter and insulation from harsh Icelandic weather. One of the major downfalls of living in a turf house is that they need to be reconstructed because the material can wear away due to the elements. Granted, that happens with most materials, but it can happen faster with turf. So, the turf houses underwent several reconstructions but never lost their charm. 1943 was the last year that anyone lived full-time in these houses. The allure of the more modern world beckoned people down from the highlands. The Rebirth of Saenautasel Turf Houses The most recent rebirth of the turf houses was in 1992 by descendants of the last residents. A few of houses were turned into a living museum and lovely café. I visited Sænautasel on a rainy and foggy day with my Icelandic friend Hrafndís Bara, who grew up in East Iceland. After parking in the lot, we were greeted by Icelandic sheep at the gate to enter. Most sheep here are not fond of people but you can tell that these sheep have grown accustomed to interacting ...